Short answer: ask about ownership, history, faults and paperwork before you travel, then check the answers yourself. The right questions save you wasted viewings, and the way a seller answers often tells you as much as the answers themselves. Get the important answers in writing, even as a text message.

Before you view: questions to ask on the phone

A five-minute call can save you a wasted trip. Ask:

  • “Why are you selling it?” A clear, ordinary reason (new baby, company car, moving abroad) is reassuring. Vague answers aren’t proof of a problem, but note them.
  • “How long have you owned it?” A seller who has had the car for years usually knows its history. Someone selling within a few months may be a trader, or may have found a problem.
  • “Is the logbook (V5C) in your name, at the address where I’ll see the car?” If not, ask why. Viewing the car at the registered keeper’s address is one of the simplest protections against fraud.
  • “Is there any finance outstanding on it?” A car with finance still owed belongs to the finance company until it’s paid off.
  • “Has it been in an accident, had any paintwork, or been an insurance write-off?” Ask directly. A seller who says no and is later shown to be wrong has misdescribed the car.
  • “Are there any warning lights on, or known faults?”
  • “How many keys come with it?” A replacement key can cost hundreds of pounds on many modern cars.
  • “Can I have it independently inspected before I buy?” Most genuine sellers say yes.

Before you go, check the car’s MOT history for free. It shows every MOT result, the recorded mileage and the advisories, so you can ask about anything that doesn’t match what you’ve been told.

At the viewing: questions about history and servicing

  • “Can I see the service history?” Look for stamps or invoices that match the mileage and dates. Gaps aren’t always a problem on an older car, but ask about them.
  • “When was the last service, and what was done?”
  • “Has the cambelt (timing belt) been changed?” On engines that have one, it’s due at set mileages or ages, and a snapped belt can destroy the engine. Ask for the invoice.
  • “What work has been done recently, and do you have the receipts?” A new clutch, tyres or brakes add value if they’re documented.
  • “Were the advisories on the last MOT fixed?” If the last MOT noted worn tyres or corroded brake pipes, ask whether they were put right and for proof.
  • “Has the car been imported, or had a number plate change?” Neither is a problem in itself, but it changes what you can check about its past.

Questions about the car itself

  • “Has it been started already today?” Ask the seller not to start it before you arrive. Some problems, such as rattles or smoke, only show on a cold start.
  • “Does everything work?” Then check: air conditioning, windows, central locking, lights, heated seats, and the infotainment system.
  • “Has it ever had a warning light that went away?” Warning lights can be cleared just before a viewing, and the fault can return a few days later. A diagnostic scan shows codes that were recently cleared.
  • “Can I take it for a test drive?” Make sure you’re insured to drive it. Check the brakes, steering, gear changes and clutch, and listen for knocks over bumps.

Extra questions for a private seller

Buying privately is often cheaper, but you have far fewer legal rights than when you buy from a dealer. A private seller must sell a car that matches how it was described, but it doesn’t have to be of satisfactory quality. So:

  • Ask the important questions in writing, or by text, so you have a record of what you were told.
  • Ask whether they have other cars for sale. Several cars on one phone number can mean a trader posing as a private seller.
  • Ask to see photo ID that matches the name on the V5C.

Our guide to your rights when buying from a private seller or a dealer explains the difference in detail.

Extra questions for a dealer

  • “What checks have you done on this car?” Ask to see them, not just hear about them.
  • “What warranty comes with it, and what does it actually cover?” Many warranties exclude wear-and-tear items such as the clutch.
  • “Is the price on the screen the price I pay?” Check for admin fees, preparation charges or add-ons.
  • “Can I have it independently inspected before I pay?” A dealer who is confident in the car should agree.

Answers that should make you stop

  • The seller won’t show you the V5C, or the name and address on it don’t match.
  • They refuse a test drive or an independent inspection.
  • They want a deposit before you’ve seen the car, or want to meet somewhere other than their home or premises.
  • The mileage they quote doesn’t match the MOT history.
  • The story changes when you ask the same question twice.
  • They pressure you to decide now because “someone else is coming to see it”.

What the seller can’t tell you

Even an honest seller may not know about a fault. Some problems only show up on a diagnostic scan, a proper road test or a close look at the paintwork and underside. Also remember that finance, write-off and stolen records aren’t something a seller can prove by saying so: a paid history check shows those. See our guide to Cat S and Cat N write-offs.

Get the answers checked

Our inspectors check the car at the seller’s address, the dealer or your home, scan the car’s computer, road test it and send you a written report with photos, often the same day. Inspections start from £69.99. See what each package includes, a sample report, or book an inspection.